3/9/2024 0 Comments Bean animal overflowBut to do that I need to have an emergency drain. So I decided I wanted to rework everything and go to full siphon drains. When I did my initial plumbing and leak test I could get the durso's quiet but the drains in the sump where very noisy & full of bubbles (which will cause salt creep). 75" returns are up close to the front of trapezoid close to where the sides meet it. The 1.5" drain is about dead center in the trapezoid and the 2x. The overflows are shaped like an Isosceles Trapezoid with the long side being part of the back wall of the aquarium. Each overflow has a 1.5" durso drain and 2 x. Personally, I have a bean-animal drain setup and I do love how safe and silent it is.But I do have occasionally have to adjust the gate valve to make it completely silent.The original setup is a dual overflow. For this tank, which is going into a casual Thai restaurant, the noise level of the durso should be fine, but if it was to increase increase significantly due to the T then I will probably turn the 3/4 return into a full siphon drain. I guess I was mainly curious if that would increase the noise level significantly. The Inlets will be covered with a bulk head strainer so there shouldn't be a risk of clogging at the split. Unless blocked at some point which would be the inlet and hence the reason for T'ing the drain is in case of a block at the inlet. So 1.5 drain at 1350 GPH max gravitional flow should be enough to handle a double Ehiem 1260 return setup sufficiently. Return will be handle via ehiem 1260 which is 635 GPH at 0'head and ~410 GPH at 4' head. Thanks for the comments and the link for pipe sizing chart. Too short and you may get more gurgling effects if water level changes a bit and can break the siphon effect. This means the drain chamber in your sump must be a constant water level (typically your skimmer chamber works).Īny deeper than 1" deep will make it hard for air to exit the pipe easily. NOTE: for both drain pipes, the drain pipe going into the sump should be submerged just about 1" below your typical sump water level. You control the trickle with the gate valve on the 1.5" primary drain. Then your 3/4" will be your emergency/backup drain that will either run dry (or typically people run it at a trickle flow). If you expect to do more than 300GPH (like closer to 1.5" siphon flow of 1300 GPH, then you use 1.5" pipe as primary drain pipe and put a gate valve to make sure it is at the siphon drain rate to just barely match your return pump rate. You control the trickle with the gate valve on the 3/4" primary drain. Then your 1.5" will be your emergency/backup drain that will either run dry (or typically people run it at a trickle flow). If you expect to do 300GPH, then you use 3/4" as primary drain pipe and put a gate valve to make sure it is at the siphon drain rate to just barely match your return pump rate. It is safe enough if you are listening to your drain pipes to make sure they are not clogged. Similar to Bean animal, but slightly not quite as safe. These configurations will get you the "quiet" overflow. If not, then you will need to use your 1.5" as your primary drain and your 3/4" as your backup. If 3/4" will support the max siphon flow rate you want, use that for your primary full siphon drain. Calculate what you want your return pump flow rate will be.
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