![]() Poor: Pain tolerance, dynos, full crimps.Fair: Body positioning, overhangs, half crimps.Good: Pinches, lockoffs, crossovers, heel hooks, slopers, roofs.Excellent: Compression, thuggy moves, stemming, open hand.Weaknesses: Balance-y slab, crimps, pain tolerance, sweaty fingers (which is no longer a weakness)ĥ year assessment: Added new categories.Moderate: Heel hooks, body positioning, dynos, slopers, overhangs, roofs.Strengths: Pinches, compression, thuggy moves, stemming, crossovers, lockoffs.Current abilities and weakness assessment Hand strength still down from peak but slowly improving with new schedule.Ģ. Progressed nicely from sessioning V6-V7s on tension board in June/July to, at the time of writing, being able to single session multiple V8s and sometimes V9 per training day. 2022 – Finally found a good pattern of hitting Tu/F as moderately hard volume days by summer with very light climbing on Sunday or light tension block.Cycle of overuse with recovery issues again. 2021 – Started the comeback in March to April-ish.Hand strength deteriorated to ~V4-5 in gym level. Still trained mostly bodyweight strength training. Injured again when second son was born (lack of recovery). ![]() 2019 – Able to climb V10 again outside.Got injured - lack of recovery like sleep - but come back from injury. 2018 – Send my first V9s and V10s outside.2017 – Start climbing outside a bunch.Hence, this is why my assessment for years of climbing is 7.5 years than ~9-10 years climbing. ~2012-2013 – Started climbing but had many periods during 2012-2015 (and 2020) where I didn’t climb for several months to a year.Overcoming Gravity has appeared in climbing stuff before: Steve Maisch’s articles on isometrics on hangboard.Have had a high strength base starting and during: 1-4ish one arm chinups, dip 90+ lbs, weighted pistols +50% bw, etc.Wrote Overcoming Gravity 2nd Edition ( digital version).Did gymnastics and parkour before getting into climbing.Past version assessments: 4 Year Assessment, 5 Year Assessment and 6 Year Assessment.This was delayed ~1 year because of not climbing during COVID (March 2020 to April-ish 2021) then 1.5 years while I’ve been regaining my abilities and other life stuff. Compilation of climbing injury rehab articles.The effect of hangboard and hand strength on climbing.Grade chasing versus completing all problems at level. ![]()
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